State and metro guides
One page per state and one page per major metro, each with the contractor licensing statute, the permit authority, storm history, and a cost calculator tuned to local code. 50 states + 40 metros live now.
Find your state →We connect you with reputable local gutter contractors in your area. Compare quotes, check credentials, and hire with confidence.
Most seamless aluminum gutter installs run $1,200–$2,800, or $6–$13 per linear foot installed with downspouts. Copper and zinc go much higher; sectional aluminum and vinyl are cheaper. Adjust the run length, material, and project type below for a ballpark on your own home, then submit your details above for real contractor bids.
Price, lifespan, and practical trade-offs for the six gutter materials you'll likely be quoted.
| Material | Cost / linear ft | Lifespan | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aluminum (Sectional) | $3 – $6 | 20–30 yrs | Budget jobs and DIY. Sold in 10-ft sections at home centers, rust-proof and lightweight, but every seam is a future leak point. |
| Seamless Aluminum | $4 – $9 | 20–30 yrs | The default professional install. Formed on-site in one continuous run, so the only joints are at corners and outlets. Dents under ladder loads. |
| Galvanized Steel | $9 – $20 | 15–25 yrs | Snow country and homes where ladders lean on the gutter. Far stronger than aluminum; can rust at seams and cut edges over time. |
| Copper | $25 – $40 | 50+ yrs | Historic and high-end homes. Never rusts, develops a living patina, and outlasts the roof. Highest upfront cost and specialty soldering. |
| Zinc | $20 – $35 | 50+ yrs | Low-maintenance premium installs. A self-healing patina hides scratches; common in European-style builds. Pricey and needs experienced installers. |
| Vinyl | $3 – $5 | 10–15 yrs | The cheapest option and the easiest DIY. Snaps together with no tools, but grows brittle in cold and sags between hangers in heat. |
Small habits add years to a gutter system's life. These six are what gutter installers consistently flag, and the ones most homeowners skip are checking the slope and flushing the downspouts.
Clear leaves and debris each spring and fall. Clogged gutters overflow, back water up under the roof edge, and rot the fascia.
Read more →Run a hose down each downspout. If water backs up, a clog is trapped at the outlet or an elbow and needs to be cleared.
Read more →Gutters need about 1/4 inch of fall per 10 feet toward the downspouts. Standing water means a run has sagged or pitched wrong.
Read more →Corners, end caps, and outlet joints are where leaks start. Re-seal any joint that drips before water reaches the fascia.
Read more →Re-secure any section pulling away from the house. Loose hangers let gutters sag, hold water, and eventually drop.
Read more →Extend downspouts four to six feet out, or add splash blocks. Water dumped at the foundation causes cracks and basement leaks.
Read more →The form takes about 90 seconds. The first gutter installer usually calls within an hour during business hours.
Answer a few quick questions about your home, project type, and zip code. Takes under a minute.
Your request is passed to a lead partner who connects you with a local gutter contractor in their network.
Review bids side-by-side and pick the contractor that fits your budget and timeline.
A plain-English research library for homeowners about to spend $10,000–$50,000 on a new gutter. Learn the cost bands, warranty fine print, and state rules for your area so you can walk into a contractor conversation already knowing what to ask.
The gutter industry runs on door-knockers, storm chasers, and quotes that vary 40% on the same scope. We pull the numbers and the rules from named government sources (state statutes, building codes, NWS storm records, state insurance regulators) and lay them out in one place, so the first bid that lands isn’t the first time you see them. When you’re ready, a quick request routes you to a local installer.
One page per state and one page per major metro, each with the contractor licensing statute, the permit authority, storm history, and a cost calculator tuned to local code. 50 states + 40 metros live now.
Find your state →Good / better / best product lines across six major manufacturers, with honest warranty fine print and tradeoffs. Sourced from manufacturer tech sheets and ICC-ES evaluations. We don’t test gutters, we research them.
Compare brands →The seven-step claim workflow, state-by-state deadlines (FL gives you 12 months, CO gives you 1 year), when to hire a public adjuster, and the red flags that mean you should walk away from a contractor.
Read the claim guide →Every state’s rule on whether the insurer must replace the whole gutter when a hail-damaged slope can’t be color-matched. Statute citations for all 50 states, direct links to the state guide.
See the matching pillar →New research on cost, materials, insurance, and repairs, published for homeowners planning their next gutter project.
Sagging gutters usually mean loose hangers or pulled-out fasteners — here's how to spot the problem and re-secure them before water damage spreads.
A step-by-step guide to clearing clogged downspouts with a hose, plumber's snake, or pressure washer — plus when to call a pro.
Most gutter leaks start at seams and joints — here's how to find them, what re-sealing costs, and when to call a pro instead.
Standing water in your gutters usually means the slope is off. Here's how to check the pitch, fix it yourself, or know when to call a pro.
Downspouts that dump water within 3 feet of your foundation cause cracks, leaks, and settling — here's how to extend them properly and what it costs.
Most homes need gutter cleaning twice a year — late spring and late fall — but tree cover, roof type, and climate can push that to four times.
Metro-specific cost data, contractor licensing, permit offices, and storm history for the largest cities we cover.
Each state has its own contractor licensing rules, insurance claim law, and storm history. Pick yours for statute-level detail and a cost calculator tuned to local codes.